Aromas of pressed Spanish broom, ripe yellow stone fruit, hazelnut and cedar mingle. On the rounded palate, well-integrated acidity lifts mature yellow peach, lemon drop candy, butterscotch and toasted almond.
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The walled city of Soave in the Veneto region is the source (and namesake) of one of the great classic Italian white wines. The town dates from Roman times, and so does the winemaking tradition. The Romans were big fans of minerally, floral wines like those of Soave. The Garganega grapes, that for many centuries have produced Soave wines, come mainly from vineyards in the hills that rise behind the town and march northwestward toward the eastern Valpolicella. This area is now known as Soave Classico and is still the source of the best wines of the denomination due to the hills’ volcanic soils.
Leaving Soave through the Porta Aquila—the north gate of the city’s 14th-century walls—a walk of a mile and a quarter (including a climb of about 500 feet) leads to the top of Mount Foscarino, a dormant volcano now covered with grapevines. In the 1960s, Giuseppe Inama began buying up small vineyard plots on this peak in the heart of the Soave Classico zone, and as a result, the Inama winery today owns most of the vineyards on Mount Foscarino. Giuseppe Inama saw the great potential of these old, traditional vineyards at a time when others were more intent on producing larger quantities in the plains for inexpensive exports. His son Stefano, who took over the winemaking duties in 1992, has continued to work tirelessly to realize the potential of these vineyards, working with some of the very best vineyard management consultants in the world to get Inama’s vineyards into the best possible shape.
Near the top of the hill is a large wooden platform with a 270-degree panoramic view to the south and east. To the right at a distance, it is easy to spot the crenellated walls and towers of Soave Castle as it keeps watch over the town. In the foreground are Inama’s tidy vigneti di Foscarino (Foscarino vineyards). And to the left, over the vineyards and across a broad valley, are a set of hills that are the home of Inama’s other project. These hills—the Colli Berici—are composed of iron-rich terra rossa, a soil type that is prized worldwide as being ideal for growing red winegrapes, and indeed this is where Inama gets its red wines.
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LOCATIONWINERY: San Bonifacio, Veneto VINEYARD: Soave (Verona province) and Colli Berici (Vicenza province), Veneto VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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91
NOVEMBER 2021
Inama “Foscarino” Soave DOC Classico 2018
Aromas of pressed Spanish broom, ripe yellow stone fruit, hazelnut and cedar mingle. On the rounded palate, well-integrated acidity lifts mature yellow peach, lemon drop candy, butterscotch and toasted almond. 94
OCTOBER 2023
Inama “Foscarino” Soave DOC Classico 2021
Grown on the top of a dormant volcano, this Soave shows why Garganga is one of the great white grapes of Italy. The wine opens with apple and cit- rus blossoms with hints of acacia honey followed by fleshy white peaches, Fuji apples and well-defined minerality. The palate is creamy yet taut with fine acidity and tons of minerality accented by ripe stone fruits and citrus zest. Drink now- 2035. 94
APRIL 2022
Inama “Foscarino” Soave DOC Classico 2019
The 2019 Soave Classico Foscarino is honeyed and floral, with hints of almond paste enriching the crushed apples and pears that form its bouquet. This is rich and pliant, almost glycerol-like in feel, contrasted by depths of saline-minerals and citrus-tinged acidity. It’s a remarkably deep and almost heady experience wine, yet it’s balanced by a serious salty character that turns floral toward the close with a hint of young kiwi. The 2019 is a really fascinating expression of textures and perfumes. Color me impressed. 94
NOVEMBER 2020
Inama “Bradisismo” Colli Berici Cabernet DOC 2016
The 50 Best Wines of 2020This is the kind of wine that does not come along often. It is a unique blend, and so balanced it doesn’t matter what those grapes are. But at the same time the blend importantly makes the wine so damn unique. This is a deep, soulful red wine that will welcome you with the subtle smell of white pepper and all kinds of herbs being washed over by the sweet savoriness of aged balsamic. Also, if you have ever had a currant jam, you’ll recognize a familiar tight tart note. The palate is very balanced, with just the right amount of acidity. This with some grilled lamb will throw you off your game for a sec. #23 of 50 93
APRIL 2022
Inama "Carbonare" Soave DOC Classico 2019
The 2019 Soave Classico Carbonare is pretty and understated, yet with a lovely sweetness mixing peach with stone dust and hints of wet slate. This is round yet delicate, with a salty flourish that evolves into tart orchard fruits and spice. A primary concentration saturates long through the structured finale, with a citrus rind intensity that lingers. This is a hugely promising and powerful vintage of Carbonare. 97
JULY 2021
Inama "I Palchi" Foscarino Grande Cuvée Soave DOC 2019
There’s incredible mineral presence here, from the nose right through to the finish. A aromatic mix of flint, tufo and wet-stone aromas, as well as heather and floral notes. Then, the palate finally introduces ripe peach and pineapple to this mineral carnival. Full-bodied, super-silky and almost syrupy texture with dense, ripe fruit and light phenolics. The long finish mixes stone-fruit and enough acidity to handle the same, huge bundle of rich, silky minerals. This is a special old-vine selection from the historic, volcanic Monte Foscarino vineyards. Quite unique in the Soave context, and showcasing one of the appellation’s top vineyard sites. Fermentation in a mix of barrel and oak cask. First vintage. Drink or hold. 90
APRIL 2022
Inama “Vin Soave” Soave DOC Classico 2021
The 2021 Vin Soave isn’t bottled yet, but it is already firing on all cylinders. It’s amazingly floral and very pretty, yet understated with gingery spice, yellow flowers and a spritz of lime. This is silky and round with masses of saline-minerals, orangey fruits and unexpected depths. The finish is long and perfumed, leaning a bit toward the tropical spectrum. The 2021 totally punches above its price point 94
AUGUST 2022
Inama “Oratorio di San Lorenzo” Colli Berici DOC Carmenère Riserva 2018
Excellent intensity here, with a classy nose of sandalwood and chili chocolate, together with racy redcurrants and olives. Medium to full body with juicy and silky tannins that linger with the fruit through the long, delicious finish. Lots of polish. Drink or hold. |