A racy red, with high-pitched aromas of tart cherry and rose hip signaling the bracing acidity. Intense, picking up wild herbs, mineral, leather and a smoky note on the palate. Shows excellent balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2042.
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During the 17th and 18th centuries, England and France were frequently at war with each other, which among other things meant that England was periodically cut off from its usual sources of wine across the Channel. Looking farther afield, they found substitutes for their French clarets in far-away Tuscany. The market for Chianti and other Tuscan wines grew and brought in significant revenue, to the point that Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici, ruler of Tuscany for more than 50 years beginning in 1670, realized that this market sector needed some regulation to protect its value. Therefore, in 1716, he issued a bando (decree) that defined exactly which parts of his realm were suitable for the production of its most renowned wines. Among the four areas that Cosimo elaborated was a zone called Pomino.
Pomino is the name of a current wine denomination, but the Pomino region defined by Cosimo III was much larger—essentially the same as the Rùfina subzone of the Chianti DOCG today. Thus, Chianti Rùfina was one of the areas (along with Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra) defined in the world’s earliest-known denomination protection law. It celebrated the bando’s 300th anniversary in 2016.
Selvapiana is among the best-known and most respected of the two dozen growers in Rùfina—the smallest subzone of Chianti—and as it happens is also one of only two wineries to produce wine from the tiny Pomino DOC. The Selvapiana winery, like all of Chianti Rùfina, lies close to the Sieve River, a tributary of the Arno upriver from Florence. The air is cooler and cleaner here than in the city, which is why these hills have long been a retreat for aristocrats escaping Florence’s summer heat. During the Renaissance, one noble Florentine family constructed the Selvapiana residence by enlarging a medieval watchtower that was one of the outposts guarding Florence from invading enemies.
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SELVAPIANA “FORNACE” TOSCANA IGT
Fornace is Selvapiana’s Super Tuscan wine, based entirely on Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grown on the estate. |
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LOCATIONWINERY: Rùfina (suburb of Florence), Tuscany VINEYARD: Rùfina subzone of Chianti, Tuscany VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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93
OCTOBER 2023
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
A racy red, with high-pitched aromas of tart cherry and rose hip signaling the bracing acidity. Intense, picking up wild herbs, mineral, leather and a smoky note on the palate. Shows excellent balance and length. Best from 2025 through 2042. 93
SEPTEMBER 2023
Selvapiana Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina DOC 2013
This is still fresh and blooming. Aromas of orange marmalade, tangerine peel, and red date tea with a hint of almond. Strikes the balance between acidity and sweetness. Not overpowering. Lingering ginger and clove aftertaste. Drink now or hold. 94
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2018
A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little. 93
SEPTEMBER 2023
Selvapiana Vin Santo del Chianti Rufina DOC 2013
This is still fresh and blooming. Aromas of orange marmalade, tangerine peel, and red date tea with a hint of almond. Strikes the balance between acidity and sweetness. Not overpowering. Lingering ginger and clove aftertaste. Drink now or hold. 94
SEPTEMBER 2020
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
The 2016 Chianti Rufina Vigneto Bucerchiale is a dark, brooding wine. Swaths of tannin make a first impression. Gradually, black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and menthol start to emerge. This potent, massively tannic Chianti Rufina is going to need a number of years to come around. There is plenty of depth, but the elements are totally put together. The 2016 finishes with tremendous substance and gravitas. I expect the 2016 will always remain a brute. 94
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2019
This has aromas of wild raspberries, plums, almond blossom, sandalwood, clay and green olives on the nose. Medium-bodied with fine, creamy tannins. Supple and transparent. Very fine. Even better from 2024. 95
SEPTEMBER 2021
Selvapiana "Vigneto Erchi" Chianti Rufina DOCG Riserva 2017
Wow. What glorious aromas of pure fruit with black cherries and currants. Really floral, too. Orange peel and tangerines. Full-bodied with really focused, polished tannins that coat your mouth, yet remain fine and beautiful. Goes on for minutes. Drinkable now, but much better in 2023 when it will have softened and come together. 97
OCTOBER 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2017
Fattoria Selvapiana is one of Rùfina's modest superstars, defined by its very low-key profile and red wines that combine generously free-flowing fruit and faultless terroir expression. The lovely light tang in every sip stems from a mix of clay-limestone that provides fatness and juiciness, while schist or galestro engenders underlying depth. Organic. |