At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.

The NV Brut Spumante Metodo Charmat Verdicchio wafts up with a delicate display of yellow florals, apples and chamomile contrasted by a twang of fresh ginger. Its soothing bubbles and balanced inner sweetness are nicely contrasted by brilliant acidity and tart orchard fruits, making for a lovely interplay of contrasts. This cleans up nicely, leaving yeasty nuances, along with subtle spices and zests of lemon. It’s worth seeking out. While there is no vintage stated on the bottle, you can locate it in the first two numerals of the lot number; in this case, 2019 - Lot L19184AO

Bright, medium deep yellow; aromas of spearmint, almond and elderflowers. Medium-full with very good to excellent concentration. There is very good acidity, notable complexity and a distinct sapidity in the lengthy, flavorful finish. I love the freshness and beautiful varietal purity displayed with this wine. Enjoy over the next 5-7 years.

The 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Macrina is zesty and fresh, punching well above its price point. Here I’m finding pretty yellow flowers, hints of smoke, lime-infused apple and savory herbs. It’s soft yet juicy and full of lively tension, showing ripe orchard fruits offset by yellow citrus and building mineral tones toward the close. The palate literally aches for another sip throughout the cheek-puckering and floral finale.

BEST BUY. Fresh watermelon with bruised mint and savory herbs all work in concert to draw your attention to the fresh and vibrant palate. Tart and crisp with mixed red fruits, dried wildflowers and sea salt on the mouthwatering palate.

The 2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium from Garofoli is just starting to show a bit of mellowing on the nose, opening to notes of ripe yellow apple, sweet florals, almond paste and stone dust. It soothes with silky textures, ushering in flavors of white peach, laced with salty minerals and a twang of green citrus. There’s so much density, giving way to a savory spiciness that lingers in the mouth along with hints of hazelnut. The 2016 has many years to go before reaching full maturity, but it can be enjoyed now on its potential alone.

Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.

The 2020 Rosso Conero Piancarda, a varietal Montepulciano, lifts from the glass with a dusty mix of dried roses, red currants and hints of nectarine that form a truly inviting bouquet. This is silky and elegant, nearly creamy in feel, yet elevated and cool-toned, with mineral-laced wild berries and a salty flourish that adds a savory sensation toward the close. The 2020 leaves a coating of fine tannins, as inner florals arch across the palate, and a caking of minerality slowly fades away. The warm vintage has imparted an extra suave character here, yet the Piancarda’s structure and acidity are nicely balanced and should promote medium-term cellaring. Lose a few bottles in the cellar; you’ll thank me later.