The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Bellovedere is massive with an oak-inspired burst of mocha mixed with mentholated herbs, cedar, black currants and exotic spice forming its bouquet. However, what impresses most here are the textures, supremely elegant and pure, yet also lifted, as the 2017 balances its rich dark fruits with brisk acids and mineral tones that add liveliness, but also depth. The tannins are fine but sweet, and in need of mellowing; this finishes incredibly long through the cocoa and cinnamon-tinged finale. The Bellovedere spends eighteen months in a combination of barriques and tonneaux, yet the integration is spot on. Give this sexy beast a few years in the cellar to soften its contours and integrate some oak.

The 2019 Lagone is a soft, fruity Maremma red to drink now and over the next handful of years. A burst of sweet red berry fruit, cinnamon, rose petal and new leather lends energy to this tasty, mid-weight red. Best of all, the 2019 should be a terrific value.

Lots of sliced green apple, lime and hints of crushed stone and some celery on the nose and palate. Medium-bodied with intense flavor and solid center-palate. A classic style of sauvignon. Drink now.

A firm and lightly chewy nero d'avola with earth and spice and some mushroom undertones. Medium body, solid tannins and a fresh, savory finish. Sustainable. Drink now.

TOP 50 WINES OF 2022 #17

Vietti has been in the village of Castiglione Falletto since the beginning of the nineteenth century. Over time, they have gradually selected the best vineyards to grow Nebbiolo and showcase them in individually, showing the diversity of this grape and their terroir. This is a great entry into the world of Vietti with their Barolo. It has everything you want from this variety. Rose petal and cherries waft up from the glass with a luscious palate of seamlessly interwoven tannins adding complexity and layers to the wine. It's balanced and delicious, …. this everything we look for in great Barolo, while rose petal and cherry notes surprise and delight the palate with every sip. Priced at just over $50, this is a steal.

The 2022 Rosato Etna Tefra is remarkably pretty with a platinum pink color. It offers a perfumed, floral bouquet. This is energetic on the palate, sizzling with brisk acidity and mineral tones as crunchy orchard fruits cascade throughout. It finishes with medium length and is slightly chewy. A young strawberry and salty flourish slowly fades.

Though firm, there is an elegance to this red, whose flavor profile ranges from strawberry and cherry to tobacco and tea. Taut and linear, with fine balance and a long, red fruit, stone and savory aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2042