Scents of tangerine and peach carry into the flavors, along with crushed apple and white cherry. Couched in a silky texture, its plush fruit is enriched by a hint of brown spice and lingers on the clean finish.

The 2021 Collio Sauvignon from Russiz Superiore shows the dimension the region can produce in the variety. The wine has a great balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals — less racy and “grassy” than Sauvignon from New Zealand and more like some of those from France’s Loire Valley. Flavors of green apple, apricot, and lemon-lime are accented by touches of flinty minerality and herbs like sage and thyme. There’s a bit of creamy softness on the long finish, a reflection of aging on the leesand a small percentage of the grapes fermented in oak barrels. Aging takes place in stainless steel tanks. It is more expensive than many of the countless Sauvignons you’ll find from just about every corner of the wine world. But the price is offset by the fact that this is a singular Sauvignon Blanc that’s among the world’s best.

The 2019 Syrah La Monaca is dark and intense, with crushed black and hints of blue berries complemented by balsamic spices and hints of cocoa, yet it gains lift through a wave of mentholated herbs. This is silky and refined with medium-bodied weight, casting mineral-tinged black fruits and nuances of mocha and licorice across a core of brisk acidity that does a fantastic job of maintaining balance. The 2019 La Monaca finishes long and potent with sweet tannins that frame the expression well, as violet-tinged inner florals slowly fade. Another year or two of cellaring is recommended to help tame this sexy Sicilian Syrah.

A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little.

A blend of 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay, the sparkling Enrico Serafino 2018 Alta Langa Metodo Classico Millesimato Oudeis Brut shows a light and luminous golden hue with rich aromas of orchard fruit, preserved lemon and freshly baked breakfast pastry. The wine is clean, sharp and mid-weight, thanks to tight beading and 36 months of lees aging.

Blackcurrant and crushed stone with some flint on the nose and palate. Lead pencil, too. Medium-bodied with tight, chewy tannins that are polished. Juicy finish. From organically grown grapes. Better after 2023.

The 2016 Barbaresco Riserva Camp Gros Martinenga shows all the pedigree of this great vintage in its power, breadth and overall intensity. Black cherry, plum, licorice, mocha, lavender and sage give the 2016 its dark, brooding personality. I am quite surprised, in a good way, how integrated the tannins are. The 2016 is a big wine, but it is already very harmonious, The 2016 spent a year in barrel and a year and half in cask.

Showing a sketch on the front label of a lady with a big flower on her head, the Tenuta Scerscé 2018 Valtellina Superiore Valgella Riserva is another beautifully fine and polished wine from the mountainous north of Italy. It offers high-elevation aromas of wildflower, crushed slate, ash and polished metal. The wine ends with a very elegant finish that is lean and bright.