Concentrated mid ruby. Perfumed, complex cherry with notes of dark earth. Real intensity on the nose. Concentrated pure cherry palate with gorgeous grainy tannins and a complex oak note. Fantastic layered finish. Big and ageworthy.

Tenuta Tascante does a great job with its single-contrada wines from Etna and succeeds at presenting the subtle differences in the character of each vineyard site. The 2020 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario (from Randazzo) comes from a relatively new parcel that was planted in 2010. The wine opens to a light garnet color and showcases aromas of blue flower, redcurrant and flinty stone or ash. It sees 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, and the luminous transparency of the fruit shines bright in this accessible vintage. Contrada Pianodario does not have the enhanced complexity or depth of Sciaranuova or Rampante, but I prefer this bottle for its elegant freshness and tightness.

The Siro Pacenti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS opens to an inky black appearance. The bouquet is very intense with baritone aromas of syrupy blackberry, barbecue spice, sweet cedar, toasted wood, baked fruit and savory tobacco. To the palate, it shows a rich, glossy finish with firm tannins and a tightly knit texture that should bode well for future cellaring. In fact, the mouthfeel is so intensely stitched together, it's to the point of feeling polished. I must hand it to vintner Giancarlo Pacenti for the elegance of the mouthfeel on this very, very bold Riserva (with only 2,000 bottles produced).

A delicate Etna rosso with red-cherry, orange-peel and floral aromas and flavors. Light tannins and a crisp finish. Vivid. Drink now.

This is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.

Very spicy and smoky, showing graphite, almost sulfur, as well as incense and red fruit. Medium- to full-bodied, austere yet balanced. The juicy palate is supple and crisp with velvety tannins and a long, dusty finish. Drinkable now but best from 2026.

Dark red fruit aromas of black cherry and plum take center stage, intermingling with an array of sweet and savory spices that perk up the senses. This wine is polished, a clear indicator of its serious craftsmanship and quality. Its firm structure promises longevity, offering an experience that demands reflection. Drink from 2026

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero is a dense, packed wine. Black cherry, plum, licorice, leather and incense add to an impression of brooding, virile intensity. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2016 clearly needs time. Even so, my belief remains what it has always been—that Villero is not the best vineyard in the Vietti range. That is even more apparent today, given the new sites that have been added to the range. The logic of making the estate's Riserva, theoretically the estate's top wine, from this site has always escaped me. That is more true today than ever, given the elite sites Vietti has added to their range in recent years.