Starts with an open feel, displaying cherry, peach, iron, tar and tobacco flavors before firming up. This lively red builds to the long aftertaste of red licorice, tobacco and earth. Best from 2027 through 2045.

Made with fruit from the estate's oldest vines and aged in French barrique, the Siro Pacenti 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne has a spicy note with cardamom or cinnamon over a bold bouquet that is darkly enriched with all kinds of black and purple fruits. You get a hint of eucalyptus or rosemary that underlines a medicinal side to this wine. To the palate, this vintage is slightly more accessible for sure, but the house style prizes concentration and bold tannic structure that will give you runway for aging. There is a hint of dustiness or chalkiness on the tannins. This is a 16,000-bottle release.

Complex aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, rose, wild herbs, stony mineral and autumn woods are the hallmarks of this elegant red, which is beginning to reveal all of its facets yet is still structured. Leaves a chalky feel of refined tannins on the long finish. Best from 2026 through 2045.

Brunate is also one of my favorite wines from Vietti (and, boy, is it hard to choose favorites) thanks to that playful hint of fresh mint that I usually find, especially in the best vintages. You certainly get it in the 2021 Barolo Brunate, and although I'm not sure how long it will last as the wine evolves, my experience suggests it only gets stronger and more beautiful in time. Indeed, this vintage (with 23 days of skin maceration) shows exceptional depth and precision with aromas that go beyond the mint, spanning instead to grilled rosemary and Darjeeling tea. The wine shows excellent textural support and broad shoulders, followed by tannins that are both sweet and chalky. It shows profound generosity and depth. Brunate always has an intense, dark soul. A total of 4,835 bottles were made.

A delicate Etna rosso with red-cherry, orange-peel and floral aromas and flavors. Light tannins and a crisp finish. Vivid. Drink now.

This is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.

First released in 1980 and made only the best years, the Sangioveto from Badia a Coltibuono is a Tuscan icon. The delicious 2020 is fantastic, delivering enticing aromas of red fruit, blue flower and spice. Fermented with wild yeasts and aged in barriques, only 10% new, the full-bodied, structured palate features succulent black plum, Marasca cherry, licorice and cake spice wrapped up in velvety tannins. Made entirely with Sangiovese, it’s smooth, fresh and enveloping, with weightless concentration and finesse. Drink through 2032.

A damp, cool stoniness defines the nose, which has aromas of blackberries, soil, herbs, crushed rock and pepper. The palate is peppery and earthy, but continuing notes of tart berries provide a cooling balance, creating a delightfully unexpected expression of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo.