From vineyards planted in 2008, the Tenuta Tascante 2020 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova (with 5,500 bottles created) has a ruby shine that seems more luminous in this vintage. The bouquet is subtle, but there is noteworthy complexity here with ashy mineral, pressed violet and cassis. There is also an interesting note of bitter almond that leans directly into a tight tannic backbone. This contrada based in Randazzo sits at 730 meters in elevation and enjoys both northern and southern exposures. The wine ages in 25-hectoliter Slavonian oak casks for 12 months with a small percentage of 300-liter tonneaux as well.

The 2018 Barbaresco Riserva Martinenga Camp Gros is a very pretty wine, and also a Camp Gros that will drink well upon release. It shows good freshness, but also the smaller scaled style of the year. Dark red fruit, rose petal, mint, blood orange, cedar and spice. This is a very pretty wine, but it does not have the body or dark balsamic profile that are the signatures of Camp Gros in its strongest years.

Two years on from the departure of former owners Luca Currado and Elena Penna, Vietti’s wines continue to honour their legacy. The only patent change is the removal of ‘Castiglione’ from the label of the estate’s classic Barolo. The construct remains the same, however: a multi-MGA, vintage-specific blend demonstrating the purity and precision found across the range. Gorgeously perfumed with rose, violet, black raspberry, liquorice and forest undergrowth among its many nuances, it boasts just the right amount of tightness, well measured density and a sophisticated chalky grip.

Dark red fruit aromas of black cherry and plum take center stage, intermingling with an array of sweet and savory spices that perk up the senses. This wine is polished, a clear indicator of its serious craftsmanship and quality. Its firm structure promises longevity, offering an experience that demands reflection. Drink from 2026

A vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the fine frame of acidity as it boosts flavors of Canary melon, white peach, almond blossoms and grated ginger. Sleek and well-meshed on the lingering, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2029.

The Siro Pacenti 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS opens to an inky black appearance. The bouquet is very intense with baritone aromas of syrupy blackberry, barbecue spice, sweet cedar, toasted wood, baked fruit and savory tobacco. To the palate, it shows a rich, glossy finish with firm tannins and a tightly knit texture that should bode well for future cellaring. In fact, the mouthfeel is so intensely stitched together, it's to the point of feeling polished. I must hand it to vintner Giancarlo Pacenti for the elegance of the mouthfeel on this very, very bold Riserva (with only 2,000 bottles produced).

The 2022 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Scarrone is a classy, elegant wine. Today's Scarrone marries finesse and power with notable style. Racy dark red plum, mocha, new leather, licorice and spice are all beautifully delineated. This deep, classy Barbera is lights out.

Intense, overt and fruit-focused Brunello with fresh violets soaked into bright, crushed raspberries, as well as ash and balsamic depth. Full-bodied yet framed and polished, with a deep tannin structure. It’s very tightly wound in the center-palate, meaning it needs time.  to open and gain full expression. Allow at least three years for it to come around. Best after 2028.