The 2023 Chianti Classico RS Cultusboni is a very beautiful, elegant wine. Lifted aromatics and silky tannins exalt the vibrant freshness of Sangiovese fruit. Readers will find a Chianti Classico that exudes finesse from start to finish.

Mentholated herbs mix with exotic spice, tobacco and crushed ashen stones as the 2019 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva PS blossoms in the glass. This is sleek and youthfully slender, with tart wild berry fruits and hints of sour citrus that flow across a stream of cooling acidity. It finishes structured and impossibly long, leaving a pleasantly tart cranberry concentration that pinches at the cheeks. There's significantly more energy and verve embodied in the 2019 Riserva than is typical. It should be fascinating to watch it mature over time.

Dark red fruit aromas of black cherry and plum take center stage, intermingling with an array of sweet and savory spices that perk up the senses. This wine is polished, a clear indicator of its serious craftsmanship and quality. Its firm structure promises longevity, offering an experience that demands reflection. Drink from 2026

A vibrant white, with pleasing buoyancy to the fine frame of acidity as it boosts flavors of Canary melon, white peach, almond blossoms and grated ginger. Sleek and well-meshed on the lingering, saline-laced finish. Drink now through 2029.

The 2022 Colli Berici Bradisismo mixes crushed violets with stone dust and wild blueberries. It is silken in feel with pure red and blue fruits that ride a wave of brisk acidity as an air of lavender amasses toward the close. The 2022 tapers off long and structured, classically dry, leaving a tart blackberry twang and mineral concentration.

A delicate Etna rosso with red-cherry, orange-peel and floral aromas and flavors. Light tannins and a crisp finish. Vivid. Drink now.

This is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.