The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

More lift is on display in the aromas of the 2019 Barolo Rocche Di Castiglione, with medicinal herbs, menthol, red raspberry, and a more cooling effect. The tannin structure is finer as well, with more drying sensation, fresh acidity, and more. From a southeast exposition that has more ventilation, I personally prefer this wine to the others from Vietti. It is not lacking in complexity. Drink 2025-2045 and beyond.

The 2021 Rosato Etna Tefra is remarkably pretty, with sweet smoke and melon complemented by hints of crushed almond and candied citrus. While silky in feel, a burst of brilliant acidity and salty mineral tones add a reverberation of tension, as orchard fruits and inner florals settle in toward the close. There’s a richness that lasts through the finale, seldom found in a Rosato, as the Tefra tapers off with a saline flourish that keeps the mouth watering for more. This is the magic of Nerello Mascalese Rosato.

The blackcurrants and violets really come through here with hints of sandalwood on the nose. It’s full-bodied with very fine tannins that run the length of the wine. Polished and long. Give it at least three or four years to come around. Try after 2025.

Here's a very special treat from Verduno and one of the most exciting new releases we will see from Italy this year. In its inaugural release, the Vietti 2018 Barolo Monvigliero is made with 60% whole cluster fruit, following in time-honored local tradition. The soils of Monvigliero are loose and light in color, producing tight but lean-bodied wines. The use of whole clusters gives the wine more texture, intensity and tannins. With wild berry, rose, dried mint and white licorice and very fine and smooth tannins, this wine is part of a precious 3,207-bottle production.

The 2019 Sor Ugo is a potent wine. Dried herbs, mocha, tobacco, leather and incense lend striking savory intensity to this tightly wound Bolgheri red. I would give the tannins a few years to soften. There's plenty to look forward to.

Made with fruit from old vines, the Tenuta Tascante 2017 Etna Rosso Contrada Sciaranuova V.V. is powerful and delicate at the same time, and it strikes a careful balance between these two opposing forces. This is one of the biggest compliments you can give to a wine from Etna, one of the most dramatic and violent winemaking panoramas on Earth. This lovely Nerello Mascalese shows aromas of cherry and wild rose with toasted nut, scorched earth and lavender essence. The concentration and staying power from those old vines add considerably to the depth, tannic power and complexity of this age-worthy bottle.

Pretty violet and lavender tones give way to musky blackberries and hints of cracked chalk as the 2019 Rosso Conero Riserva Agontano opens in the glass. This cool-toned beauty shows its minerality up front, as silky textures gain grip through a mix of tart, wild berry fruits and stimulating acidity. The 2019 tapers off with lip-smacking tension and grippy tannins, yet it’s packed full of zesty energy. The Agontano is a 100% Montepulciano that’s refined in second-pass barriques. This is a really beautiful expression of the variety, one that will need a short stay in the cellar to show its best.