A polished, spicy wine focused on restrained fruit with a leafy touch and spicy depth. Juicy on the palate, this has a ripe and smooth attack, velvety tannins and a slightly leafy finish. Well-balanced. Drink or hold.

Deep purple in hue, the 2023 Vecchia Modena Nero opens with a bouquet of crushed blackberries, sage and orange sorbet. It’s savory within yet full of energy as vibrant acidity motivates its tart wild berry fruits and violet inner florals toward the close. This leaves chalky mineral tones to linger through the perfumed finale, tapering off with cheek-puckering tension that begs the taster to take another sip.

Rosés, like babies, are almost all beautiful, but this one from the Montepulciano vineyards of Marche is especially lovely with its apricot hue. The wine ain’t bad, either – refreshingly tart flavors of peach but mainly peach skins that linger in a good way. The structure is lean but not emaciated, and the light tannins and a hint of bitters give it a pleasant finish.

A very pretty, perfumed, young Etna rosso with plenty of fresh flowers, focus and finesse. Medium-bodied, it has fine tannins and a long, bright finish. Best ever? Drink now or hold.

The 2023 Valdobbiadene Vigneto Giardino Rive di Colbertaldo Asciutto is delicate yet remarkably pretty, wafting up with a cascade of floral perfumes and hints of sweet spice, peach sorbet and nectarine. It floods the palate with a creamy bead of fine bubbles and ripe orchard fruits, all guided by brilliant acidity as a nuance of candied citrus informs the close. Notes of green apple, melon and a sensation of liquid stone appear as the 2023 finishes with amazing length and complexity. This is fantastic.

Complex aromas of cinnamon, spices, earth and strawberries with a leesy character. The attack is supple, with firm, ripe, velvety tannins. It’s slightly austere and dusty on the mid-palate. Full-bodied and powerful but refreshing, with a long, minty aftertaste. Best after two to three years.

Limpid and transparent, the 2021 allies vivacity with rigour. Hints of pepper lift red currant blossom and raspberry aromas. Sapid minerals tantalise the palate, which is awash with tangy sumac and succulent blood orange. The cool alpine air is palpable in the racy acidity and linear, chiselled tannins. Structure is still very much in control here but gracious enough to disclose future rewards. Vineyards in Ravera were purchased in 1995, when it was still considered too cold to reliably ripen Nebbiolo, but now this is consistently one of Vietti’s top bottlings.

First released in 1980 and made only the best years, the Sangioveto from Badia a Coltibuono is a Tuscan icon. The delicious 2020 is fantastic, delivering enticing aromas of red fruit, blue flower and spice. Fermented with wild yeasts and aged in barriques, only 10% new, the full-bodied, structured palate features succulent black plum, Marasca cherry, licorice and cake spice wrapped up in velvety tannins. Made entirely with Sangiovese, it’s smooth, fresh and enveloping, with weightless concentration and finesse. Drink through 2032.