Lovely perfumes of flowers and rose stems to subtle red fruits and oranges follow through to a medium to full body. Tight, focused fruit and tannins lead to a crisp finish. Drink now.

Equal parts fruity and balsamic, this red reveals cherry, cranberry and rose hip notes alongside eucalyptus, juniper and cedar flavors. Taut and well-marked by a line of dusty tannins gracing the finish. Classy and long. Best from 2028 through 2045.

The 2016 Barolo Riserva Villero is an elegant, polished Barolo. It offers up a beguiling mix of orange peel, cinnamon, dried flowers, cedar, leather and sweet pipe tobacco, all framed by a discreet touch of oak. Time in bottle has softened the tannins a touch. This is beautifully done.

Tenuta Tascante does a great job with its single-contrada wines from Etna and succeeds at presenting the subtle differences in the character of each vineyard site. The 2020 Etna Rosso Contrada Pianodario (from Randazzo) comes from a relatively new parcel that was planted in 2010. The wine opens to a light garnet color and showcases aromas of blue flower, redcurrant and flinty stone or ash. It sees 12 months in Slavonian oak casks, and the luminous transparency of the fruit shines bright in this accessible vintage. Contrada Pianodario does not have the enhanced complexity or depth of Sciaranuova or Rampante, but I prefer this bottle for its elegant freshness and tightness.

Concentrated mid ruby. Perfumed, complex cherry with notes of dark earth. Real intensity on the nose. Concentrated pure cherry palate with gorgeous grainy tannins and a complex oak note. Fantastic layered finish. Big and ageworthy.

Raspberries, cherries and sliced red plums on the nose. Incisive and medium- to full-bodied with firm, precise tannins and dark fruit throughout. Firm finish. Drink now.

A very pretty, perfumed, young Etna rosso with plenty of fresh flowers, focus and finesse. Medium-bodied, it has fine tannins and a long, bright finish. Best ever? Drink now or hold.