This is a very fruit-forward syrah with crushed blackberry and raspberry and hints of cloves. Medium body with firm, fine tannins and a spicy, lightly meaty aftertaste. Drink or hold.

The NV Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Bosco di Gica punches well above its price point, boasting an intensely smoky and mineral expression on the nose that pulls you close to the glass. Beneath, I’m finding notes of pear and sweet herbal tones. It’s soothing and creamy yet balanced by brisk acids, as ripe orchard fruits satiate the senses, leaving a salty twang that resonates through the finale. Wow. This is a pleasure to taste. This was bottled in September of 2020.

The 2021 Extra Brut Col Credas Rive di Farra di Soligo is more of a whisper than a shout, as nuances of sweet melon and wildflowers give way to cracked slate and gingery spice. This is savory and mineral in style, caressing the palate with silken bubbles, as citrus-tinged orchard fruits are complemented by a salty flourish that evolves toward the close. The Col Credas finishes potent and with remarkable length, leaving a lemon-rind-like concentration, even as the mouth is left watering for another sip.

The 2018 Barolo Brunate is a deep, layered wine that is going to need at least a few years to come together. Today, the Brunate is quite primary and backward, but all the ingredients are there. Sage, menthol, licorice, dried flowers and spice build with a bit of coaxing.

The 2021 Collio Sauvignon from Russiz Superiore shows the dimension the region can produce in the variety. The wine has a great balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals — less racy and “grassy” than Sauvignon from New Zealand and more like some of those from France’s Loire Valley. Flavors of green apple, apricot, and lemon-lime are accented by touches of flinty minerality and herbs like sage and thyme. There’s a bit of creamy softness on the long finish, a reflection of aging on the leesand a small percentage of the grapes fermented in oak barrels. Aging takes place in stainless steel tanks. It is more expensive than many of the countless Sauvignons you’ll find from just about every corner of the wine world. But the price is offset by the fact that this is a singular Sauvignon Blanc that’s among the world’s best.

Dark and imposing, the 2016 Carmignano Riserva Trefiano smolders up from the glass, with rich plums giving way to crushed violets, stone dust, hints of tobacco and saddle leather. An opulent wave of velvety textures floods the entire palate with ripe red and black fruits, leaving a saturation of minerals and grippy tannins in its wake. This is potent, long and structured; yet the balance is on point, as notes of hard red candies and hints of licorice fade. The 2016 Trefiano is quite a wine. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Caniolo that spends eighteen months refining in medium-toast tonneaux, half new and half second pass.

BEST 50 WINES 2022

Psst, here’s a secret. Friuli has some of the most expressive Sauvignon Blanc on the planet. There was a point in this region’s history where “international” varieties were more prominent than their native grapes. And while they did the work to bring those back, Friulian winemakers took varieties like Sauvignon Blanc (Merlot, Cabernet Franc) and coaxed a new kind of balance out of them. Some of the best of this grape comes from here, like this beautiful example from Russiz (Roo-seez). Bright and mineral-driven with minimal fruit, this wine is about texture. The palate is a study in balance with excellent acidity and just the right grip. It is very Friulian, and you may have a hard time sharing.