The 2021 Sauvignon Collio from Russiz Superiore shows the dimension the region can produce in the variety. The wine has a great balance of fruit, herbs, and minerals — less racy and “grassy” than Sauvignon from New Zealand and more like some of those from France’s Loire Valley. Flavors of green apple, apricot, and lemon-lime are accented by touches of flinty mineralogy and herbs like sage and thyme. There’s a bit of creamy softness on the long finish, a reflection of aging on the lees and a small percentage of the grapes fermented in oak barrels. Aging takes place in stainless steel tanks. It is a highly versatile wine that can be enjoyed with lots of simple fish and shellfish dishes, roast chicken, and vegetable-based risottos and pastas. it’s more expensive than many of the countless Sauvignons you’ll find from just about every corner of the wine world. But the price is offset by the fact that this is a singular Sauvignon Blanc that’s among the world’s best.

The 2017 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana takes its time opening in the glass, at first dusty with dried cherries and only a hint of dusty rose. Yet this is worth the wait, as its berry fruit transforms into crushed plums and raspberries, complemented by sweet herbs, hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. It washes dark elegant waves of mineral-tinged blackberries across the palate, offset by a twang of sour citrus, as hints of cocoa and tobacco build toward the close. This is structured and noble in feel, yet with enough primary concentration to nearly mask its grippy tannins, as touches of mint and dark chocolate linger through the medium-length finale. The balance that Capezzana has culled from this torridly hot and dry vintage is remarkable. That said, the 2017 is already drinking beautifully today after a good decant. This is a blend of 80% Sangiovese to 20% Cabernet Sauvignon.

The Vietti 2020 Colli Tortonesi Timorasso Derthona (aged in a combination of oak and ceramic tile-lined cement) is a wine of nice tension and ample texture. These contrasting characteristics shape the wine, which is horizontal in approach with broad appeal. The bouquet delivers tones of orchard fruit, saffron, honey and crushed stone. This medium-bodied wine will evolve slowly over the next 10 years, transitioning to more mineral, beeswax and dried fruit aromas. Production is 9,000 bottles.

The 2018 Barolo Lazzarito represents Vietti's interpretation of Serralunga d'Alba, the village often associated with the most powerful wines in the appellation. The Lazzarito completes its secondary fermentation in barrique over three months and is then racked into large oak botti for an additional two years of aging. With some 8,000 bottles produced in this smaller vintage, the wine is very indicative of its geographic origins with tight black fruit, rusty nail, blood orange and earth. Compared to the others in this series, this wine delivers more lasting tannic power. A bit salty and savory now, it is well suited to long aging.

Medium intense amber orange; aromas of burnt orange, marzipan and a hint of coffee. Medium-full with very good concentration. Rich finish with notes of coffee, chocolate and tree bark. Excellent complexity and typicity; a bit more subdued than some examples of Amaro. Enjoy over the next 3-4 years. 25% alcohol.

In my view the Barbaresco Masseria is the most under-the-radar wine at Vietti. I rarely see it talked about, and yet it has been quite impressive for a number of years. Beginning in 2018, the Masseria is made exclusively from a sizeable parcel in Roncaglie Vietti acquired from Socré. The 2018 Barbaresco Masseria Roncaglie is a captivating, layered wine full of character. Effusive aromatics make a strong opening impression. Rose petal, lavender, sage, blood orange and red berry fruit all run through this vibrant, focused Barbaresco. The 2018 is charming and nuanced from start to finish. This is the first vintage from a parcel that previously belonged to Socré. It's an impressive debut, to say the least. All this nervy Barbaresco needs is time.

The 2017 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Riserva Bellovedere is massive with an oak-inspired burst of mocha mixed with mentholated herbs, cedar, black currants and exotic spice forming its bouquet. However, what impresses most here are the textures, supremely elegant and pure, yet also lifted, as the 2017 balances its rich dark fruits with brisk acids and mineral tones that add liveliness, but also depth. The tannins are fine but sweet, and in need of mellowing; this finishes incredibly long through the cocoa and cinnamon-tinged finale. The Bellovedere spends eighteen months in a combination of barriques and tonneaux, yet the integration is spot on. Give this sexy beast a few years in the cellar to soften its contours and integrate some oak.

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino keeps me coming back to the glass to take in its pretty bouquet of dusty florals, exotic spices and dried strawberries. This is like pure silk on the palate, seamless and supple, with depths of dark red fruit and mineral tones that add a more tactile feel toward the close. Balsam herbs, cedar and tobacco all resonate throughout the long and dramatic finale, as fine tannins frame the experience with youthful poise. As is often the case, Casanova di Neri is a master at creating one of the region's most balanced and enjoyable “entry-level” Brunellos.