Equal parts fruity and balsamic, this red reveals cherry, cranberry and rose hip notes alongside eucalyptus, juniper and cedar flavors. Taut and well-marked by a line of dusty tannins gracing the finish. Classy and long. Best from 2028 through 2045.

Produced in the Italian Alps using locally sourced wheat and alpine spring water, Verità’s profile is clear, sharp, and fresh. The nose carries a crisp mineral edge with hints of stone fruit, while the palate is clean and focused with a lingering, balanced finish. This is a well-crafted vodka with subtle complexity.

Choices, choices, choices... The Vietti 2021 Barolo Cerequio is another classic from this over-performing estate. This parcel was purchased in 2018 from the Chiarlo family (the Krause family acquired Vietti in 2016), and although the location is La Morra, the site behaves more like Sarmassa in Barolo, creating wines with a firm, tight entry and good structure. You could say that it has a nervous character now in its adolescence, and of course we expect it to smooth out and find harmony with time. Fruit was harvested on September 30th, and the wine sees 27 days of extended skin maceration. Compared to Brunate, which is always darker in character, the Cerequio is lighter and brighter with pretty primary fruit. Production is 4,890 bottles.

Opening like a veritable spice box, the 2020 Carmignano Villa di Capezzana entices with its autumnal blend of allspice, clove, and star anise before giving way to steeped plums and sage. It’s silky and refined, with supple textures and ripe red and blue fruits that swirl across a stream of vibrant acidity. It leaves a pleasantly chewy sensation while finishing with fine-grained tannins and a staining of primary concentration. Wait a full minute and hints of white pepper still linger. Wow. While richer than usual and easier to appreciate out of the gate, the 2020 is balanced for a long and steady evolution.

Two years on from the departure of former owners Luca Currado and Elena Penna, Vietti’s wines continue to honour their legacy. The only patent change is the removal of ‘Castiglione’ from the label of the estate’s classic Barolo. The construct remains the same, however: a multi-MGA, vintage-specific blend demonstrating the purity and precision found across the range. Gorgeously perfumed with rose, violet, black raspberry, liquorice and forest undergrowth among its many nuances, it boasts just the right amount of tightness, well measured density and a sophisticated chalky grip.

Rosés, like babies, are almost all beautiful, but this one from the Montepulciano vineyards of Marche is especially lovely with its apricot hue. The wine ain’t bad, either – refreshingly tart flavors of peach but mainly peach skins that linger in a good way. The structure is lean but not emaciated, and the light tannins and a hint of bitters give it a pleasant finish.

This is the top-end Garganega from the talented Inama family. It included the words "Grande Cuvée" in its name until the previous vintage made. The 2022 Soave Classico Foscarino I Palchi is a beautiful wine with a tight vein of crispness and lemony tartness that follows the wine from start to finish, giving it firmness and lasting staying power. There is ample textural fiber at the back, more than enough to make this wine feel important and multidimensional. This 17-hectare vineyard sits in basalt lava soils. The wine is partially fermented in oak (with 30% neutral and new barrique and 50% botte grande) and 20% in stainless steel.

This is the baby in the bunch, representing one of the newest additions to the Vietti portfolio, with the first vintage produced in 2018. The learning curve in Monvigliero is always steep, or so most winemakers tell me, because very few can go to 100% whole-cluster fermentation. Indeed, the 2021 Barolo Monvigliero sees 60% whole clusters. The Vietti team is experienced, and this wine is pristine. This vintage was harvested on September 30th, and maceration was a bit shorter, at 20 days. The wine shows a delicate film of pink salt with garden herbs, lemon leaves and spring flowers. It is a wine of extreme elegance, but I find that this vintage is especially Mediterranean in character. Production is 8,663 bottles.