A rich white with aromas of stone fruit, apricots, peaches, seaweed and iodine. Light-bodied, supple, very silky and savory, it shows tingling acidity and a tight, intense finish. Full of harmony. Drink now.
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Malvasia is one of the grape names that has been applied rather indiscriminately to a number of sort-of-similar but unrelated aromatic grape varieties. Among the gaggle of more than a dozen different Malvasias, one of the most respected examples is known as Malvasia di Lipari, named after a small island off the northeast corner of Sicily. Lipari is the largest of eight isles in this area collectively known as the Lipari Islands or, more often, the Aeolian Islands.
The Aeolian Islands are known for their volcanism—two of the islands, Vulcano and Stromboli, are still active volcanoes—which has earned them a place on the World Heritage list. They are also known for a delicious sweet dessert wine made from the indigenous Malvasia di Lipari, a large portion of which is consumed by the thousands of tourists who come to enjoy the islands’ beautiful beaches and sunshine in the summer.
The most attractive of the Aeolians is the island of Salina (where much of the movie Il Postino was filmed). The noble Tasca d’Almerita family, which has been at the forefront of production and research in Sicily’s wine industry since 1830, acquired 12 acres of vines in Malfa on the northeast point of Salina. The spot is called Capofaro, meaning Lighthouse Cape, and indeed an important lighthouse stands next to the vines, guiding the numerous interisland ferries and other boats around the headland.
At the time of purchase, the vineyards were planted with 30-year-old Malvasia vines, of which Tasca kept the healthy ones and filled in with new plantings. Modern viticultural practices were introduced with a particular goal of better protecting the grapes from sun and wind damage to maintain fresh flavors and aromas. This is demonstrated in one of the two wines made here, Dydime, an atypical Malvasia made with fresh grapes and finished dry. Tenuta Capofaro’s other wine, “Capofaro,” is closer to the traditional sweet dessert wine of the island, taking advantage of new technologies. The grapes are brought indoors intact after harvest and are laid out to dry in order to dehydrate them and concentrate their sugars and flavor components. After a few weeks of drying, they are vinified into a classic sweet island wine. However, Capofaro is not a traditional Malvasia delle Lipari DOC wine, which requires a small addition of a grape called Corinto Nero. Tasca prefers the pure expression of Malvasia and therefore the 100% Malvasia wine is made under the auspices of IGP Salina.
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LOCATIONWINERY: Malfa, Salina Island (Messina province), Sicily VINEYARD: Malfa, Salina Island, Sicily VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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92
SEPTEMBER 2025
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2024
![]() A rich white with aromas of stone fruit, apricots, peaches, seaweed and iodine. Light-bodied, supple, very silky and savory, it shows tingling acidity and a tight, intense finish. Full of harmony. Drink now. 90
JULY 2025
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2024
![]() The 2024 Malvasia Didyme lifts from the glass with a delicate blend of young peach, sweet smoke and spice. Ripe orchard fruit and a hint of candied citrus splash across the palate, offset by a distinctly savory core of saline minerality. The finish is crisp and refreshing, with medium length and nuances of sage that fade slowly. 93
APRIL 2025
Tenuta Capofaro “Didyme” Salina IGT 2023
![]() Here's a wine I love to drink during my Italian summer holidays. The Tenuta Capofaro 2023 Malvasia Didyme (with the light blue label) shows a lean, silky consistency with bright aromas of summer caper flower, citrus and Himalayan salt. Winemaking is straightforward, with a quick ferment in stainless steel and four months on the lees. What stands out in this bottle is how the Malvasia grape reflects the mineral nuances of volcanic soils on the tiny island of Salina. There is hint of softness on the close. |