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92
SEPTEMBER 2020
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2016
The 2016 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium from Garofoli is just starting to show a bit of mellowing on the nose, opening to notes of ripe yellow apple, sweet florals, almond paste and stone dust. It soothes with silky textures, ushering in flavors of white peach, laced with salty minerals and a twang of green citrus. There’s so much density, giving way to a savory spiciness that lingers in the mouth along with hints of hazelnut. The 2016 has many years to go before reaching full maturity, but it can be enjoyed now on its potential alone.
91
OCTOBER 2021
Garofoli “Grosso Agontano” Cònero Riserva DOCG 2018
Dusty violets, roses, incense wild herbs and wet stone lift up to form a perfumed display as the 2018 Conero Riserva Grosso Agontano blossoms in the glass. The Agontano is silky and refined, contrasting ripe red berries and sweet spice with saline-mineral tones and brisk acidity. This leaves the palate with a coating of fine tannins, yet it remains energetic, savory and almost salty in character, with a hint of black licorice that lingers long. The 2018 Agontano will only require minimal cellaring to show well, and, although quite balanced and pretty, it should be enjoyed sooner rather than later.
89
SEPTEMBER 2020
Garofoli “Macrina” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2019
The 2019 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Macrina is zesty and fresh, punching well above its price point. Here I’m finding pretty yellow flowers, hints of smoke, lime-infused apple and savory herbs. It’s soft yet juicy and full of lively tension, showing ripe orchard fruits offset by yellow citrus and building mineral tones toward the close. The palate literally aches for another sip throughout the cheek-puckering and floral finale.
93+
NOVEMBER 2022
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2020
The 2020 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Podium is youthfully inward and coy at first, with a dusty florality and hints of cardamom in the glass. Swirling unlocks nuances of sage and rosemary, ginger and hints of smoky cracked stones, yet its fruit, leaning toward apricot, is still quite shy. Today, this impresses more on the palate, deeply savory and mineral in style, with a herbal twang and sour melon which place it firmly into the green fruit spectrum, all brilliantly offset by a saturating salty sensation. The palate is left reeling with spicy tension; the 2020 finishes structured, leaving the cheeks puckered and the mouth watering thanks to a late-arriving bump of zesty acidity. This will take some time to show its best, but it will be time well spent.
91
AUGUST 2022
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2019
Pear and lemon meringue with pithy note. Long-lasting flavors with rich, nutty fruit and extravagantly textured. Good intensity and length.
94
OCTOBER 2021
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2019
At each tilt of the glass, the 2019 Podium reveals something new. Initially showing gingery spice, white smoke and yellow flower notes, it evolves into sour melon, young mango and wet stone aromas. Finally, it turns flinty, with crushed apples and raw almonds. The silky textures are almost glycerol-like, even though it is seemingly weightless in feel. It hovers above the senses while being propelled by vibrant acidity and saturating mineral tones, as ripe orchard fruits and inner florals cascade across the palate. It leaves you with an achingly youthful impression, the combination of structure and lingering notes of bitter grapefruit rind and granny smith apples. 2019 Podium is a classic in the making; and while it can be enjoyed today, the best is yet to come.
92
DECEMBER 2023
Garofoli “Podium” Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore DOC 2020
A lovely, graceful white, with succulent acidity enlivening notes of ripe pear, anise and crushed almond, showing hints of Meyer lemon peel, vanilla and white blossoms. Long and well-knit, with a tang of salinity emerging to linger on the finish. Drink now through 2030.
90
JUNE 2021
Garofoli “Kómaros” Montepulciano Rosato Marche IGT 2020
The Montepulciano grape is considered one of Italy’s best grapes for Rosato wines. Garofoli’s Rosato boasts an orangish pink color and peach, Meyer lemon aromas with a saline note. In the mouth, the wine is lean and crisp with peach, citrus flavors that linger on the tongue. Pair it with grilled halibut or sushi. Innkeeper Antonio Garofoli, started making wines in 1871 to serve Christian Pilgrims visiting the Basilica della Santa Casa in the town of Loreto in the Marche region of Italy. In the early 1900s, his son, Gioacchino, created a winery and today, members of the fourth generation, brothers Carlo and Gianfranco Garofoli and their children run the winery. They specialize in Trebbiano and Montepulciano grapes with a smaller amount of Sangiovese and Trebbiano Toscano. The Piancarda vineyard is where they grow their best Montepulciano grapes, some destined for their Rosso Cònero DOC, and others specially grown for the Rosato.
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