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During the 17th and 18th centuries, England and France were frequently at war with each other, which among other things meant that England was periodically cut off from its usual sources of wine across the Channel. Looking farther afield, they found substitutes for their French clarets in far-away Tuscany. The market for Chianti and other Tuscan wines grew and brought in significant revenue, to the point that Grand Duke Cosimo III de’ Medici, ruler of Tuscany for more than 50 years beginning in 1670, realized that this market sector needed some regulation to protect its value. Therefore, in 1716, he issued a bando (decree) that defined exactly which parts of his realm were suitable for the production of its most renowned wines. Among the four areas that Cosimo elaborated was a zone called Pomino.
Pomino is the name of a current wine denomination, but the Pomino region defined by Cosimo III was much larger—essentially the same as the Rùfina subzone of the Chianti DOCG today. Thus, Chianti Rùfina was one of the areas (along with Chianti Classico, Carmignano, and Val d’Arno di Sopra) defined in the world’s earliest-known denomination protection law. It celebrated the bando’s 300th anniversary in 2016.
Selvapiana is among the best-known and most respected of the two dozen growers in Rùfina—the smallest subzone of Chianti—and as it happens is also one of only two wineries to produce wine from the tiny Pomino DOC. The Selvapiana winery, like all of Chianti Rùfina, lies close to the Sieve River, a tributary of the Arno upriver from Florence. The air is cooler and cleaner here than in the city, which is why these hills have long been a retreat for aristocrats escaping Florence’s summer heat. During the Renaissance, one noble Florentine family constructed the Selvapiana residence by enlarging a medieval watchtower that was one of the outposts guarding Florence from invading enemies.
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SELVAPIANA “FORNACE” TOSCANA IGT
Fornace is Selvapiana’s Super Tuscan wine, based entirely on Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc—grown on the estate. |
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LOCATIONWINERY: Rùfina (suburb of Florence), Tuscany VINEYARD: Rùfina subzone of Chianti, Tuscany VIEW IN GOOGLE MAPS REGION DETAILS |
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93
JUNE 2022
Selvapiana “Villa Petrognano” Pomino DOC 2019
 This has aromas of dried herbs, crushed raspberries, blackberries, grilled meat and orange peel. Medium-bodied with chewy tannins and a savory, wild and firm palate. Tangy acidity, too. Better after 2023. 93
MAY 2019
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2015
 The Selvapiana 2015 Chianti Rufina Riserva Vigneto Bucerchiale is a generous and exuberant expression of Sangiovese that remains everfaithful to its traditional and territory-driven roots. This wine speaks with a Tuscan tongue, giving voice to wild berry, earthy truffle and aromas of Mediterranean herb. The finish is softly fruity with subtle structure (which is firm and binding nonetheless) and fresh acidity. - Monica Larner 90
JULY 2020
Selvapiana Chianti Rufina DOCG 2018
 Chianti Rufina 2018 is the least expensive ($19), the easiest to enjoy, and the readiest to drink. Its nose is surprisingly fruity and vibrant for a Chianti; it suggests fresh red cherries, dried herbs, fresh mint and thyme, and licorice. In your mouth, the wine is dry and medium-bodied, a light-ish red with a spine of acidity and just a medium amount of tannin, with fruity flavors similar to its aromas. A noteworthy aspect of this wine is how well it “hangs” in your mouth — fruitiness in the front, acidity up the middle and a combination of fruitiness and textured tannin in the back. It’s a complete wine that delivers all across your mouth. Did I mention the price? Despite these connotations of “lesser than,” it’s the wine I really want to drink, especially now, in July. 94
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2018
A very pure and beautiful red with cherry and strawberry. Subtle spice, such as nutmeg and cedar. Orange peel, too. Medium to full body. Firm, silky tannins melt nicely into the wine. Fresh and clean finish. A little tight at the end. A beautiful single-vineyard Chianti Rufina with structure. Drinkable now, but better after 2023, when it will have softened a little. 96
FEBRUARY 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
 Loaded with personality, this opens with aromas of forest floor, new leather, camphor and ripe black-skinned fruit. The palate boasts an earthy elegance reminiscent of top Burgundies, showcasing ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, truffle, star anise and a hint of salted game. Firm, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. Drink 2022–2036. 94
SEPTEMBER 2020
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
 The 2016 Chianti Rufina Vigneto Bucerchiale is a dark, brooding wine. Swaths of tannin make a first impression. Gradually, black cherry, plum, lavender, cloves, leather and menthol start to emerge. This potent, massively tannic Chianti Rufina is going to need a number of years to come around. There is plenty of depth, but the elements are totally put together. The 2016 finishes with tremendous substance and gravitas. I expect the 2016 will always remain a brute. 95
AUGUST 2021
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2017
Very intense blackberries and spice with some earth and violets. Really complex. Full-bodied with layers of ripe tannins, yet they are firm and formed. Shows how well this cool area does in a hot vintage. Attractive now, but needs time to open. Try after 2023. 93+
AUGUST 2019
Selvapiana “Bucerchiale” Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG 2016
The 2016 Chianti Rùfina Vigneto Bucerchiale is a real standout. |
